The sauna in a private garden is used four or five times a week by the same two individuals, while the one in the hotel is used from seven in the morning until ten in the evening by guests who have never used a sauna, do not read the sign, and will pour a bucket of water over the stones simply because someone has told them that is what is meant.

They are a different product because the construction, heater, electrical supply, and conversation are different.

Most of the inquiries we receive from gyms, hotels, and resorts begin with a photo of a residential barrel sauna and a question about price. That is a reasonable starting point. However, the difference between a domestic sauna and a commercial one is not simply a larger-sized unit – it is the duty cycle, compliance and access, and it is these three factors which determine the specifications well before any timber is selected.

What a commercial buyer in Thailand actually has to go through is the following.

Start with the licence, not the sauna

Sort out the section that confuses people before you agree to anything.

There is no separate licence for saunas in Thailand. According to the Health Establishment Act B.E. 2559 (2016), sauna and steam services are included within spa businesses and are therefore regulated by the Department of Health Service Support of the Ministry of Public Health.

Two consequences are worth understanding early on.

A health massage licence does not include you; if a licence already exists for a massage service on the property, then that licence specifically excludes saunas, steam rooms and hydrotherapy. Adding a sauna to a massage business is not a minor extension of the existing permission; it requires a different licence.

The Spa Manager Licence includes a registration period, which all spa establishments must complete, and it usually begins once a year. If a resort doesn’t find out about this until the ninth month of its fit-out, it has a real scheduling problem, not just a paperwork one.

There is often another layer as well. In your particular district, a Health-Hazardous Business Licence from the local Public Health Office might also be required, one that covers sanitation, ventilation and waste. Since the requirements differ from municipality to municipality, the solution applicable to a property in Chonburi will not automatically apply to one in Phuket or Chiang Mai.

We aren’t lawyers and therefore can’t give you legal advice. What we can say is that we have gone through the process, and the ones who handle the situation well raise the matter with their lawyer or with DHSS during the first month of planning, rather than waiting until later. The fact that a supplier has never mentioned any of this to you indicates something about the number of commercial installations they have actually carried out.

Size the room by volume, not by headcount

When it comes to residential purchases, people want to know how many individuals the space can accommodate; commercial buyers, on the other hand, should be concerned about cubic metres since it is the cubic metres that determine the heater, and the heater in turn determines the electrical supply, and the electrical supply determines if the project is simple or costly.

Work out your internal volume in cubic metres, then match the heater:

3kW — 2 to 4 m³
4.5kW — 3 to 6 m³
6kW — 5 to 8 m³
9kW — 8 to 11 m³
10.5kW — 9 to 13 m³
12kW — 11 to 15 m³
15kW — 13 to 18 m³
18kW — 15 to 20 m³

Two points are important for commercial rooms.

Glass and uninsulated surfaces will require you to go up a size; a fully glazed front is a nice feature in a hotel’s wellness area, and it continuously loses heat. When sizing up the heater, do so for the room you are actually constructing, not for the solid-walled room of the same volume.

Recovery time is more important than the highest temperature. A domestic sauna is heated only once a day, while a commercial one is continually opened and closed, and every time a door is opened, heat is lost. The problem of undersizing doesn’t become apparent on the first day; it shows itself in the third month, when customers complain that the sauna is never properly hot at six in the evening.

If you don’t know where your room fits in the sizing, our guide on what size sauna heater you need looks at the sizing in more detail.

Power: this is where commercial projects get expensive

Heaters up to 9kW can be connected with a single-phase supply, but if they exceed that amount, you need three-phase.

For most commercial rooms, this is the highest variable cost apart from the cost of the sauna itself; if your plant room already has three-phase power available and the distance to the sauna is short, no special action is needed. But if that is not the case, you’ll need to carry out a supply upgrade, and you should discuss this with your electrician and the PEA before bringing it up with us.

Two things we would ask you to confirm early:

At the site, the supply that is available, not that which is at the building; the distance between these two is often the whole issue.

Who is carrying out the last connection? A qualified electrician must always make the final connection. We supply the complete electrical specification, covering voltage, current draw, wire and cable size, and breaker rating- as a document you can give directly to your contractor, so there’s no need for guessing.

Heaters and controls for a commercial duty cycle

We offer traditional stone heaters made by Harvia and Diooist, both of which are genuine products and come with a genuine warranty; this is particularly important in a commercial environment rather than a domestic one since in a house a faulty heater is merely an inconvenience, whereas in a hotel it results in guests making complaints every day until the spare part reaches them.

The touchscreen controls are fitted to the walls by default, and a WiFi app for both iOS and Android is available as an extra feature. For commercial operators, the app is not just a gadget; it lets the duty manager confirm the sauna has reached the desired temperature before the first customer arrives, and switch it off from the front desk at closing time.

Timber: what survives a commercial duty cycle

All of the timber that we offer is suitable for use. Although it does not age the same way under constant use, the grade takes this into account.

Red Cedar is stable, having a pleasant aroma and a low thermal conductivity; it is the premium choice by default for commercial rooms.

Rusty Cedar — offers the same performance but with a warmer, more variegated appearance.

Japanese Hinoki — has a great smell and can be a real conversation starter in a high-end home.

Japanese Cedar — lighter and softer in character.

Thermo Hemlock — heat-treated for stability, clean, and pale.

Hemlock — sound and economical.

Thermo Pine — a value option that is still a proper sauna.

When it comes to a hotel spa or a resort’s well-being area, we would usually recommend Red Cedar or Hinoki; this isn’t because the other types don’t work, but because the room is an integral part of the guest experience and since both cedar and hinoki have an appearance and smell that match what a guest expects from a sauna.

For a gym in which the sauna is merely a utility rather than a feature, assigning the money to Thermo Hemlock or Thermo Pine makes sense.

We give a full breakdown of the best wood for saunas and ice baths in Thailand.

Site, ventilation and drainage

There are a few items we prefer to address now rather than wait until install day.

A solid and even foundation, such as a concrete pad, a structural deck, or a paved surface. When a commercial room is filled with people, the resulting load is considerable, and in the case of a roof or an upper floor where the structure has to be checked, it should not be assumed.

The outdoor rooms have flat roofs. All the outdoor saunas we offer have flat roofs because they handle Thai rain well, fit modern architectural styles, and avoid the maintenance problems associated with a pitched roof with a flue.

Ventilation should be included in the discussion when applying for the licence and not treated as a secondary issue; it applies to both the room and the space that the room is in. It is worthwhile having your consultant look at it at the same time as you submit the licence application rather than doing so afterwards.

This is the one which causes delays in the schedule. You need to check the lift dimensions, the width of the stairs, the angle of the corridors, and whether the truck can get within carrying distance. Send us photographs and the measurements as early as possible, and we’ll honestly let you know if it’s feasible.

The cold side

The commercial wellness installations that we provide quotations for are not limited to just saunas. There are separate commercial factors to take into account with regard to the ice bath aspect if you are setting up a hot-and-cold circuit.

The baths have a stainless steel inner layer, either grade 304 or 316, and optionally feature Red Cedar or composite outer cladding. We do not construct solid timber that is in contact with water, and we never use teak; in a commercial situation where the water is used continuously and is also sanitised continuously, only stainless steel is reliable as an inner material, and for properties located by the sea, 316 should be specified.

A chiller is essential for commercial use; ice alone is suitable for a private bath. A gym couldn’t operate using bags of ice, and once the water has been pumped into a chiller which maintains a precise temperature, the running cost is very low. If you need the actual running cost of a chiller in Thailand for budgeting purposes, we have prepared that information.

Lead time, delivery and installation

For a custom room, the time allowed is eight to ten weeks together with freight; we provide delivery throughout Thailand and internationally if required.

The saunas come flat packed and are shipped in a specially designed timber crate. In most cases, two or three people can assemble the room in one day using clear instructions, and many properties arrange for their own maintenance team to do it. If you prefer that it should be done for you, professional installation includes delivery to the site, full assembly, levelling, fitting in the heater and a handover walkthrough.

For commercial jobs, we generally advise the install service, for one rather dull reason: it makes it our responsibility for the final room rather than dividing it among three parties if any adjustments are needed.

What to send us for an accurate quote

We can quote properly from five things:

The internal dimensions of the room, or the area that you have available.

Including photos of the site, along with the access route.

The kind of electrical supply available at that location, whether it is single-phase or three-phase.

Whether it is indoors or outdoors.

The date on which you will open and whether the licensing procedure has begun.

As long as the space has not been finalised, you will be able to go through the various configurations and view the up-to-date pricing even while your architect is still adjusting the walls.

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Frequently asked questions

Q: Is it necessary to have a licence in order to install a sauna in our hotel or gym in Thailand?
You almost certainly need a Health Spa Licence rather than a Health Massage Licence since sauna and steam are included in the spa section of the Health Establishment Act; a district-level Health-Hazardous Business Licence might also be required. It is important to check your particular case with DHSS or a Thai lawyer as early as possible in the planning process, since the window for registering for the Spa Manager Licence opens only once each year.

What is the difference between a commercial sauna and a private one?
A: The duty cycle involves constantly opening and closing the commercial rooms, operating them for twelve or more hours each day, and having them used by people who are not familiar with the equipment; as a result, a more powerful heater is needed for the same volume, leading to more robust specifications and control systems that a duty manager can handle.

Can a commercial sauna be operated using single-phase power?
Yes, for up to 12kW. If you go above that, then you’ll need three-phase. Since this is usually the highest variable cost for commercial rooms, it’s important to check what type of supply is available at the actual site before deciding on the size of the room.

Q: How long will a custom build take? Eight to ten weeks from the date of ordering, together with the cost of freight to your address. If you have a fixed opening date, start from that date and add a margin for the licensing process, since it follows its own timetable.

What do you think — can our maintenance team carry out the installation or do you need your crew?
A: Either works. Rooms arrive flat-packed and most assemble in a day with two or three people. For commercial projects, we generally recommend our installation service so responsibility for the finished room sits in one place.

Do you provide the electrical specifications to our contractor?
A: Yes. You receive a full specification covering voltage, current draw, wire and cable size and breaker rating, ready to hand to your licensed electrician. A licensed electrician must make the final connection.

Can you manage a rollout involving multiple sites?
A: Yes, when you discuss the entire programme rather than looking at each site individually, it makes a difference to our ability to schedule and price it.

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Talk to us before the drawings are finished

The commercial projects that go smoothly are the ones where the sauna was part of the plan, not added to it. Bring us in while the space is still on paper, and we can tell you what the room wants to be, what it will draw, and what your contractor needs to leave you.

Book a free consultation — phone, video call, or in person.

087 250 2426 (Thai) · 06 2229 5157 (English)

For several years, I’ve been taking cold water baths, and the first thing that no one ever tells you is that Thailand “cheats” [joke]. The tap water stays at about 28 to 30°C year-round; if you fill a bathtub and then walk away, you’ll have a lukewarm bath. So before discussing which ice bath is best, you should realise that in Thailand, the bathtub is only half the deal. The other half is how you get the water cold and keep it that way.

Taking that into account, I’ll now give an honest look at the four types that are actually available for sale here: inflatables, acrylic baths, all-in-one systems, and wooden and stainless steel baths. Although I sell two of these and therefore have a bias, I’ll also tell you exactly when the cheaper options are appropriate.

Are inflatable ice baths worth it?

Yes, if you’re looking to begin. An inflatable ice bath is a tub made from PVC or with a drop-stitch construction that fits into a bag, requires no plumbing and can be set up in ten minutes. We carry a two-person model at RonYen, and I always recommend it to people who want to see whether ice plunging is something they’ll genuinely adopt or just a temporary trend before investing any money.

The main disadvantages are that the insulation is thin, so in Thailand’s hot climate your ice will melt quickly, or your chiller will have to work hard. The material breaks down when exposed to UV radiation if it’s going to be used outdoors, so you should find a shaded location. Also, it has the appearance of camping equipment, which is acceptable when placed next to a gym mat but not so appropriate next to a villa pool.

Verdict: it is the best entry point, the best in terms of portability, and has the shortest lifespan.

What about acrylic ice baths?

The acrylic and fibreglass baths are the smooth white ovals that you find in gym recovery areas; they are lightweight, easy to clean and generally fall within the mid-price range.

In Thailand, there are two problems. The first of these is the sun; acrylic turns yellow and becomes brittle when exposed to the tropical ultraviolet radiation, and so an acrylic bath used outdoors ages rapidly if it is not sheltered by solid cover. The second problem is that it scratches, and when acrylic is scratched it holds on to biofilm, meaning that more chemical treatment is needed in order to keep the water safe in a climate in which warm water encourages the growth of organisms.

Verdict: Fine indoors with air conditioning. Not a good choice outside in Thailand.

Should all-in-one ice bath systems be worth the consideration?

All-in-one ice baths combine the tub, chiller and filtration system into one unit. Just plug it in, use cold water, and that’s that. The convenience is genuine, and for a while it does seem like the sensible choice.

The problem appears after two or three years. The chiller is the hardest-working element in any ice bath arrangement, particularly in this case since it has to cope with 30°C ambient water and 35°C air. With an all-in-one unit, if the chiller fails, you end up having to service a sealed, proprietary unit rather than simply replacing a standard component. The sizes cannot be changed, and the tubs are generally made of plastic composite; if the brand’s support in Thailand is poor, then the entire system is only as good as its worst component.

The verdict is that it’s convenient until the compressor has a bad day.

Why are wood and stainless steel ice baths the best for use in Thailand?

We are the ones who build this kind, so you can take the bias as given. There are solid reasons the combination of wood and stainless steel is the better choice in this climate, and they’re the same reasons that led us to make our selection.

The interior is made from 304 or 316 stainless steel; stainless steel doesn’t scratch into biofilm traps, doesn’t yellow and is unaffected by UV exposure, meaning it can be easily cleaned. In a hot climate, water hygiene is everything, and steel is the simplest surface to keep safe. When you are close to the coast, 316 provides additional corrosion resistance so as to cope with salt air.

The outside material is either timber, red cedar or thermo pine, and the wood does not come into contact with the water. It is applied as cladding to the steel structure, which allows you to enjoy the warmth of timber without having to endure the difficult maintenance that comes with wet wood. Since both types of timber cope well with the humidity found in Thailand, they are also used in our saunas.

The chiller is a separate component, and it is exactly this aspect that is often undervalued. A standalone chiller is a standard, satisfactory and replaceable unit, and when it finally requires servicing—which happens to every chiller in Thailand—you can have one part serviced or replaced while the bath continues to function for many decades.

It’s built to your measurements. Our custom ice baths are made to order, either circular or oval, and are sized according to the space you have rather than to a shipping container, with a starting price of ฿79,000 and free delivery all over Thailand. This is important for resorts and wellness studios that have a particular footprint, as well as for houses where the bath is on display rather than kept behind the shed.

The verdict is that it has the highest initial cost, the lowest annual cost, and is the only one that improves in appearance with age.

So, which one should you buy?

If you’re having a trial run with it, then buy the inflatable one and a couple of bags of ice as well; there’s no embarrassment in doing that, because that’s the way I would start again.

When the intention is to go indoors at a gym, and the budget is limited, acrylic will suffice.

If you want to have cold water every day for the next ten years outdoors in this climate, then you should get a stainless-steel interior, a timber exterior and a separate chiller; this setup takes Thailand’s heat, sun and humidity into account as design factors rather than treating them as unexpected problems.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q: Do I have to use a chiller when preparing an ice bath in Thailand?
A: Yes, in practice. The tap water here is always between 28 and 30°C, which means that if you don’t have a chiller, you’ll have to buy a bag of ice for each session. The advantage of a chiller is that it keeps the water at your desired temperature continuously.

Q: What is better, 304 or 316 stainless steel, for use in an ice bath?
A: 304 is the standard grade and is well suited for use in inland Thailand; 316 has better corrosion resistance and is therefore the preferable option in coastal areas since salt air corrodes metal. We use both of them.

Q: Can a wooden ice bath rust in Thailand’s humidity?
A: Not like ours, since the timber is used only as external cladding over a sealed stainless steel container and so doesn’t end up in water; both red cedar and thermo pine tolerate tropical humidity very well.

Q: How long does an inflatable ice bath last?
A: Kept shaded and cleaned regularly, a few years. Left in direct Thai sun, considerably less. They are an entry point, not a long-term fixture.

Q: Are all-in-one ice baths a bad idea?
A: Not bad, just a trade. You gain plug-and-play convenience but lose serviceability. When the built-in chiller wears out, you are repairing a proprietary sealed system instead of swapping a standard chiller.

A six-person barrel is ฿110,252 cheaper than a six-person rectangle.

You get the same number of seats, the same heater, and the same timber. The only real difference is the shape, and that actually matters.

Most comparisons say it’s just about taste: choose a barrel if you like a rustic look, or a rectangle if you prefer something practical. But that’s not the most important part. The shape affects how quickly it heats up, how much timber you pay for, how much of the space you can actually use, and how much room it takes up in your garden.

Here’s what each one does and what each one costs.

What does each sauna shape cost?

The barrel is the cheapest at every size. Cube sits in the middle. Rectangle costs the most.

From prices, Thermo Pine, outdoor:

2 person
Barrel — ฿182,958
Cube — ฿203,750
Rectangle — ฿238,299

4 person
Barrel — ฿192,216
Cube — ฿218,265

6 person
Barrel — ฿232,348
Cube — ฿266,908
Rectangle — ฿342,600

8 person
Barrel — ฿271,088
Cube — ฿317,331

Free nationwide delivery on all of them. Installation is separate, and so is the ferry if you’re on an island.

Those price differences aren’t just a business decision. It comes down to geometry, which is also why a barrel heats up fast. A cylinder is the most efficient way to enclose space, and it always has been. With the same amount of space inside, a barrel has less surface area than a box. That means it uses less timber, which lowers the price and also keeps more heat inside, reducing heat escaping through the walls.

You’re not getting a lesser sauna for ฿110,000 less with six seats. You’re getting the same volume of air, heated by the same heater, wrapped in less material.

That’s the main reason barrels have been built this way for so long.

Why does a barrel heat faster?

There’s less unused air above your head, and the curved shape helps move the heat around.

In a rectangle, the air above the top bench is dead volume. Heat rises, hits a flat ceiling, and sits there doing nothing for you. You’re paying to heat a layer of air nobody is sitting in.

A barrel’s curve follows the heat. It rises, runs along the curve, and comes back down the far side. Natural circulation, no dead corners, less total volume for the same number of people.

In practice, a barrel sauna heats up faster and maintains a more even temperature than a rectangular sauna with the same number of seats.

So why would anyone buy a rectangle?

Because you can’t sit in a curve.

This is the trade-off, and it’s something most barrel sauna sellers don’t mention.

The shape of a barrel limits how you can arrange the benches. The floor is narrow since you’re at the bottom of a cylinder, and the walls curve away. Bench layouts that are easy in a box can be awkward or impossible in a barrel. You also lose the corners because there aren’t any.

Standing up can also be tricky. You only get full height in the very middle, so if you’re tall, you’ll quickly learn to stand in the centre.

A rectangle uses every millimetre. Straight walls take benches anywhere, at any height, in any arrangement.

For two people, the difference is hardly noticeable, and saving ฿55,000 is significant. For six or more, the rectangle is worth the extra ฿110,000 because everyone can sit comfortably without having to figure out where to sit.

What about a cube?

A cube is basically a rectangle that fully embraces its boxy shape.

It has the same advantages: you can use all the space inside, arrange benches however you like, and stand anywhere. The main difference is in its proportions and design. A cube is made to look intentional, and it works better with glass because the walls are flat and square.

It’s ฿20,000 to ฿35,000 more than a barrel at the same seat count and ฿35,000 to ฿75,000 less than a rectangle.

If your sauna will be somewhere you’ll see it often, like off a deck, beside a pool, or visible from the kitchen, the cube is a great choice. It looks more like a piece of architecture than a simple shed.

If your sauna is hidden down the side of the house, you’re paying for looks that no one will notice. In that case, go with the barrel.

Indoor or outdoor?

Indoor and outdoor saunas are different products, not just different locations.

An outdoor sauna is a building. It has a roof, weatherproofing, and an exterior that must withstand the Thai wet season. That’s a large part of what you’re paying for.

An indoor sauna is more like a renovation. Since you already have the roof and walls, we just build the sauna inside. There’s no need for weatherproofing, which makes it a more affordable option.

If you have a spare room, a corner in the garage, or a large enough bathroom, an indoor sauna is the best budget choice. It’s not a downgrade—it’s the same sauna, just without the extra building around it.

Which one should you get?

Two people and a tight garden: barrel. Six or more: rectangle. Somewhere visible: cube. Spare room: indoor.

Barrel — one to four people, tight on space, want it hot fast, don’t need clever benching, and you’d rather spend the ฿55,000 on timber than on corners.

Rectangle — six or more, want flexible benches, want to stand up wherever you like, want the most usable room per baht once there’s a crowd in it.

Cube — it’s going somewhere visible; you want glass, and you want it to look designed rather than delivered.

Indoor — you have the space already, and you’d rather spend the money on Red Cedar than on a roof.

No single shape is the best sauna. Each one is better suited to different needs.

What we’d tell you to do

First, decide how many people will use the sauna, and then choose the shape that fits. Don’t pick the shape first.

Two of you, small garden: barrel, ฿182,958, and it’ll be hot in half the time.

A family: a rectangular six-seater. The benching flexibility is worth more than the timber efficiency once there are four of you deciding where to sit.

A feature by the pool: a cube, with glass.

A spare room you never use: indoor, and put the difference into better timber.

We’re located in Ban Suan, just ten minutes from Central Chonburi. You can book an appointment to try out the saunas in person. It only takes thirty seconds to feel the difference between a barrel and a rectangle, but it can take a long time to read about it.

FAQ

What’s the difference between a barrel sauna and a rectangular sauna?

A barrel is a cylinder on its side; a rectangle is a box with straight walls. For the same internal volume, a barrel uses less timber, so it’s cheaper and heats faster. A rectangle gives you flexible benching and full standing height throughout.

Are barrel saunas cheaper?

Yes. A two-person barrel starts at ฿182,958, compared to ฿238,299 for a rectangle. At six seats it’s ฿232,348 against ฿342,600 — a saving of ฿110,252. A cylinder encloses the same volume with less surface area, so there’s less timber in it.

Do barrel saunas heat faster?

Yes. The curve leaves less dead air above your head and circulates heat naturally, so there’s less total volume to heat and no dead corners.

Are barrel saunas better than rectangular saunas?

Neither is better at being a sauna. A barrel suits one to four people in a tight space. A rectangle suits six or more, because you can’t put a bench in a curve the way you can in a corner, and standing height in a barrel exists only on the centre line.

What’s a cube sauna?

A rectangle designed to look deliberate. Same full use of internal space and flexible benching, but proportioned as architecture and better suited to large glass. A two-person cube is ฿203,750, sitting between the barrel and the rectangle.

Which sauna shape is best for a small garden?

A barrel. For the same internal volume, it has less surface area and a smaller footprint than any box, so it takes up less ground for the same seats — and costs less.

Is an indoor sauna cheaper than an outdoor one?

Yes. An outdoor sauna is a building — a roof, weatherproofing, an exterior that survives a wet season. An indoor sauna is a fit-out inside a room you already have.

Most companies in this industry won’t tell you the price up front.

You’ll usually see a nice photo, some words about wellness, and a button asking you to contact them for a quote. In other words, they want to know your budget before sharing the price.

So here are the real numbers for three sizes and two types of timber, plus the two costs people often leave out until you’ve made your decision.

How much does a sauna cost in Thailand?

Between ฿238,299 and ฿886,577 for an outdoor cabin, depending on size and timber.

Here’s the real grid. These are outdoor saunas that include a traditional stone heater.

1–2 person · 1600 × 1600mm · 4.5 kW heater
Thermo Pine — ฿238,299
Red Cedar — ฿372,806

6 person · 3000 × 2000mm · 9 kW heater
Thermo Pine — ฿342,600
Red Cedar — ฿542,646

12 person · 5000 × 2600mm · 16.5 kW heater
Thermo Pine — ฿549,167
Red Cedar — ฿886,577

Delivery is free anywhere in Thailand. Installation costs extra, and if you live on an island, ferry charges are separate too.

You can use our sauna builder to customise any of these options and see the price change as you go. There’s no hidden price or lead form—what you see is what you pay.

What moves the number most?

Size matters most, followed by the type of timber. Other factors have a much smaller impact on the price.

Size. A 1–2-person cabin and a 12-person room are completely different products. The larger one needs more timber, a bigger heater, and a much higher electrical capacity.

Timber. Many people underestimate how much this affects the price. Thermo Pine comes standard in all the prices above. Japanese Cedar and Red Cedar are upgrades, and Red Cedar especially adds a lot—it’s ฿134,507 more for the small cabin and over ฿337,000 extra for the twelve-seater. The cost increases with size because you need more wood.

Indoor or outdoor. An outdoor sauna is a full building with a roof and weatherproofing. An indoor sauna is just a room. The prices listed above are for outdoor saunas.

BarrBarrel or cube. You can choose either of these shapes instead of the standard cabin. Barrel saunas use less timber for the same space inside and heat up faster, so it’s not just about looks—it’s more efficient. Glass, benching, black exterior. Real, but they move the number by thousands, not hundreds of thousands.

Is Red Cedar worth ฿134,000 more?

Sometimes. It really depends on whether you’ll be looking at your sauna often.

Red Cedar is the best timber in the range. It smells extraordinary when it’s hot; it ages beautifully; it’s naturally durable, and it’s the thing people picture when they picture a sauna.

For a small cabin, Red Cedar adds more than half the price of the sauna itself.

The honest split, as we see it:

Red Cedar is a good choice if your sauna will be a main feature in your garden, if you’ll see it every day from your house, or if you want that special scent. It’s a thoughtful purchase, and it shows.

Thermo Pine is a smart choice if you see your sauna as a tool. It’s not a lesser material—it’s thermally treated, stable, and built to last. When you’re relaxing in an 85°C Thermo Pine cabin, you won’t be wishing for cedar.

Japanese Cedar sits between them and costs a fraction of the Red Cedar jump.

If you’re on a budget, spend more on size rather than timber. A larger Thermo Pine sauna is always better than a smaller cedar one, especially if you want to use it with friends or family. Included?

Yes. A traditional stone heater comes with each sauna. The heater included with each sauna is matched to the room size—4.5 kW for the small cabin, 9 kW for the six-seater, and 16.5 kW for the twelve-person model. The room size determines the heater, not the other way around. Don’t pick the heater; the room picks it.

You can upgrade within the range, and the builder shows what that costs. You can also switch the whole thing to infrared rather than traditional.

Controls are included as well. Every sauna comes with a wall-mounted touchscreen, and you can add WiFi app control for iOS and Android if you want. This is especially useful if your sauna is outdoors and you want it hot when you arrive home.

What does installation cost?

Between ฿10,000 and ฿45,000, depending on where you are.

The installation cost depends on your location, not the sauna itself. Installing one nearby is much easier than delivering to an island, where ferry costs are extra.

Delivery is free throughout Thailand. Installation is optional and costs extra—the sauna arrives flat-packed and is designed for easy assembly. Many customers put theirs together over a weekend.

So installation is a genuine choice: a Saturday, or ฿10,000 to ฿45,000. Both are fine answers.

What are the two costs nobody mentions?

The base and the electrician. Neither is ours, and neither is optional.

This is where quotes often fall short, which is why the sauna price is never the full amount you’ll pay.

The base. Your sauna needs a flat, strong surface like a concrete slab, a sturdy deck, or paving on a solid foundation. We don’t build the base—your builder handles that. The cost depends on what you already have. If there’s an existing slab, it’s free. If it’s just a patch of soft garden, it will take more work.

The electrician. A licensed electrician will need to install a properly rated circuit for the heater, with its own breaker. We don’t handle electrical work. Every sauna in our builder shows the exact electrical requirements—load, voltage, current, wire size, and breaker—so you can give these details to your electrician and get an accurate quote before you order.

No one can give you a price for the base or electrical work without seeing your site, and that includes us. If someone tells you the sauna price is the total cost, they’re not being honest.

Get quotes for both the base and the electrical work before you order. That way, you’ll have a clear budget instead of an unexpected bill.

What does it cost to run?

It costs about ฿30 per session to run a mid-sized cabin. This is probably the least important number in the whole guide.

Rough arithmetic at around ฿5 per kWh: a 9 kW heater, 45 minutes to heat plus an hour’s use, is roughly 6 kWh once the thermostat starts cycling the element off. Call it ฿30.

Four times a week is about ฿520 a month. Thai residential electricity is subject to a progressive tariff, so your rate depends on your total consumption. Check the bill if it matters.

No one has ever skipped buying a sauna because of ฿520 in monthly running costs.

What’s the cheapest way to get a sauna in Thailand?

The cheapest option is a small Thermo Pine cabin that you assemble yourself on a base you already have. That’s ฿238,299 and a day’s work.

If price is the binding constraint, that’s the answer, and it’s a proper sauna — not a compromise, not a tent, not a heated cupboard. Thermo Pine is a real timber. A compact cabin heats faster and costs less to run. An existing slab or deck is free.

We don’t recommend choosing a sauna that’s too small for your needs. A 1–2 person cabin really fits one person, or two people who are comfortable together. If you want to use the sauna with your family, the six-seater at ฿342,600 is the minimum size we suggest.

How long until you have it?

Six to nine weeks to build, then a day to install.

Every sauna is made to order and built by hand, so the timeline starts when you place your order. Those weeks are just right for getting your base poured and cured and having the electrical circuit installed. That’s why we mention both from the start.

Every sauna comes with a two-year structural warranty, and your deposit is refundable up to 14 days.

What we’d tell you to do

Use our sauna builder to design your sauna, then take the electrical specifications to an electrician before you place your order.

The builder provides the exact load, voltage, current, wire size, and breaker for your chosen setup. It only takes a five-minute chat with an electrician to find out if the sauna you’ve designed will work in your home.

Then get your base quoted. Then order.

If you follow this order, your price will stay accurate. If you do it the other way around, you might end up with a sauna you can’t power or install.

We’re in Ban Suan, ten minutes from Central Chonburi, and you can come and see the saunas by appointment before you spend anything.

FAQ

How much does a sauna cost in Thailand?

An outdoor RönYen sauna runs from ฿238,299 for a 1–2-person Thermo Pine cabin to ฿886,577 for a twelve-person room in Red Cedar. A six-person cabin is ฿342,600 in Thermo Pine or ฿542,646 in Red Cedar. Delivery is free nationwide.

Is the heater included in the sauna price?

Yes. A traditional stone heater sized for the cabin is included, along with a wall-mounted touchscreen controller. WiFi app control is an add-on, and you can upgrade the heater or switch to infrared.

How much more does Red Cedar cost than Thermo Pine?

It scales with the build. Red Cedar adds about ฿134,500 to a 1–2-person cabin, ฿200,000 to a six-person cabin, and over ฿337,000 to a twelve-person. Thermo Pine is included in the base price.

Is delivery free for saunas in Thailand?

Yes, delivery is free nationwide. Installation is charged separately, ranging from ฿10,000 to ฿45,000 depending on location, and ferry costs apply to islands. Installation is optional — the sauna is flat-packed and can be self-assembled.

What extra costs are there beyond the sauna price?

The base and the electrical. RönYen doesn’t do groundwork or electrical work, so a builder prepares the base and a licensed electrician runs the circuit. The sauna builder gives you the exact electrical spec to hand to your sparky.

What’s the cheapest sauna?

A 1–2-person Thermo Pine cabin at ฿238,299, self-assembled on a base you already have. Thermo Pine is real timber, not a compromise. If you want to sauna with family, the six-person sauna at ฿342,600 is the honest floor.

The install is the easy part. It’s the two weeks before it that catch people out.

We show up, build the sauna, and finish up in a day for most cabins. Whether that day goes smoothly depends on what’s ready when we arrive. In my experience, every delayed install has come down to three things people didn’t prepare for.

So here’s the honest version of what happens, what we do and don’t do, and what you need to have ready.

What does RönYen actually do?

We install the sauna. We don’t do the groundwork or the electrical.

That’s how the work is divided, and it’s important to be clear about this from the start because it is where unexpected issues often arise.

What we do: deliver the sauna flat-packed, assemble it on your prepared base, fit the heater and controls, and hand it over working.

What we don’t do: pour concrete, lay decking, build a deck, run cable, install a breaker, or connect to your board. We’re sauna builders, not a construction company or an electrical contractor.

Some suppliers suggest they’ll take care of everything, but then hire others for the parts they don’t handle. We prefer to be upfront, so you can arrange a builder and an electrician before the truck shows up, not after.

What does a sauna installation cost?

Between ฿10,000 and ฿45,000, depending on where you are.

The price range depends on your location, not the sauna itself. For example, Ban Suan and Phuket are very different. A cabin close to us and one on an island involve different travel, planning, and costs.

Delivery itself is free anywhere in Thailand. It’s the install that carries a fee, and we’ll quote it exactly once we know where you are and what we’re building.

Installation is an add-on, not compulsory. See the self-assembly section below.

What do you need to have ready?

You’ll need a level base that can support the weight and the power available right where the sauna will go, proper drainage, and a clear path to bring in the flat-pack.

That’s everything you need. Each one is important, and all are your responsibility.

A level, sturdy base is essential. Saunas are heavy, with timber, benches, a heater full of stones, and people inside. It needs to rest on something flat and strong that won’t shift. Concrete slabs, well-built decks, or paving on compacted ground are all good options. Soft ground, uneven surfaces, or a deck meant for just a few chairs won’t work.

We don’t measure or build the base for you. That’s your builder’s job, and they’ll need to know the sauna’s footprint and approximate weight. Just ask us, and we’ll provide those details.

Power must be available exactly where the sauna will be, not just nearby. A licensed electrician should run a properly rated circuit to the heater’s location, with its own breaker.

Most homes in Thailand use single-phase power, which supports heaters up to 12 kW. If you need more, you’ll need three-phase. This detail has changed more sauna plans than anything else here, so check your power supply before choosing a size.

Drainage away from it. Water gets used, and water gets spilled. The ground around the sauna should shed water rather than hold it. Timber sitting in a puddle has a shortened life.

Access is important. The sauna comes flat-packed, so the panels can fit through gates and around corners, unlike a pre-built cabin. However, they still need to reach the installation spot. If the only way in is a narrow gate with a sharp turn, let us know before delivery day.

What about clearances?

The heater has minimums, and they’re not negotiable. They come with the unit.

Every heater has manufacturer-specified minimum distances to benches, walls and anything combustible. Those aren’t suggestions, and they aren’t ours to change. They ship with the heater, and whoever installs it works for them.

That’s true whether we install it or you do. If you’re building it yourself, read them before you place a bench, not after.

Ventilation is also important, and it’s something many home-built saunas get wrong. A traditional sauna needs air to flow through it, with an inlet low near the heater and an outlet high on the opposite side. Without this, heat builds up unevenly, the air becomes stale, and the sauna doesn’t work well even if the thermometer looks fine.

Can you install it yourself?

Yes. It’s flat-packed and designed to go together.

This isn’t a second-best option. A RönYen sauna comes as panels and fittings with clear instructions, and many customers assemble theirs over a weekend. If you’re handy and have a friend and a drill, you can definitely do it yourself.

You can’t do the electrical work yourself. Only a licensed electrician should handle it, regardless of who assembles the sauna. Don’t try to improvise—sauna heaters use a lot of power and operate in a wet, hot environment.

So the real question isn’t about your ability. It’s whether you want to spend a Saturday building it yourself or pay ฿10,000 to ฿45,000 to have us do it. Either choice is perfectly reasonable.

Can you put a sauna on a balcony or a rooftop?

Not one of ours, no. And be careful of anyone who says yes.

A sauna puts a lot of weight in a small area, while balconies are built for people and furniture, not a timber room with a heavy heater and several adults. Residential balconies aren’t designed for this kind of load, and if they fail, there’s usually no warning.

We don’t install permanent saunas or steel ice baths on balconies. That’s a firm rule, not a case-by-case thing.

Rooftop installations depend on structural engineering, not just sauna requirements. If you own the building and have an engineer’s approval for the load, we can discuss it. If you’re in a condo, it’s almost always not allowed, and your building management will likely say no before we even get involved.

If you’re in an apartment and you want cold, an inflatable ice bath is the honest answer. It goes anywhere, it holds a fraction of the weight, and it’s the one product in the range that genuinely doesn’t care where you put it.

How long does the whole thing take?

Eight to nine weeks to build, then a day to install.

Every sauna is made to order and hand-built, so the clock starts when you order, not when you decide. Eight to nine weeks is the build. Delivery and installation follow.

Make use of that time. It’s just right for pouring and curing a slab and getting the electrical circuit installed. That’s why we share the four requirements at the start, not at the last minute.

Problems usually happen when the base construction only begins the same week the truck is scheduled to arrive.

What we’d tell you to do first

Call an electrician before you call us.

It’s not that we don’t want your order. The reason is that knowing your power supply and what your electrical board can handle determines which sauna you can get. It’s a quick question that can save you from having to change your plans later.

Once you know that, everything else follows: the supply determines the heater, the heater determines the cabin size, and the cabin size determines the base.

Work in that order, and the install is a good day.

FAQ

Do you do the groundwork and electrical work for a sauna installation?

No. RönYen installs the sauna itself. The base and the electrical supply are yours to arrange — your builder prepares the base and a licensed electrician runs the circuit. The space needs to be ready before we arrive.

How much does sauna installation cost in Thailand?

Between ฿10,000 and ฿45,000 depending on your location. Delivery is free anywhere in Thailand; installation is a separate add-on, and we quote it once we know your location.

Can you install a sauna yourself?

Yes. RönYen saunas are delivered flat-packed and designed for assembly, and many customers build their own. The electrical connection must be done by a licensed electrician regardless.

What kind of base does a sauna need?

A level, load-bearing surface that stays flat and sheds water — a concrete slab, a properly built deck, or paving on a compacted base. Ask us for the footprint and weight, and give both to your builder.

Can you put a sauna on a balcony?

No. A sauna is a heavy, concentrated load and residential balconies aren’t designed for it. RönYen doesn’t install permanent saunas or steel ice baths on balconies. An inflatable ice bath is the sensible option for an apartment.

How long does a sauna take to arrive and be installed?

Eight to nine weeks to hand-build, then roughly a day to install. Use the build time to get your base and electrical sorted.

Almost everyone has the same first question, but few say it out loud.

People ask about the temperature, how long to stay in, or what to bring. But what they really want to know is if they’ll embarrass themselves.

You won’t. No one is watching. That’s the main thing, and the rest of this page explains the details.

What is a hot and cold session?

You get hot, you get cold, you rest. Then you do it again.

That’s the whole practice. People in Finland have done this for two thousand years, and every version since follows the same three steps.

At the Garden, each session lasts three hours, and you can use that time however you like. Most people do three or four rounds. Some do two and spend the rest of the time relaxing under a tree, which is a perfectly good way to enjoy the wellness garden.

There’s no set schedule. No one will signal you to move on.

How long do you stay in the sauna?

Ten to fifteen minutes for most people. Less on your first go.

The sauna is kept at 80 to 90°C. If it’s your first time, start with eight to ten minutes and see how you feel. There’s no need to push yourself.

The best time to leave is when you stop enjoying it. Don’t worry about the timer or what others are doing. Everyone’s heat tolerance is different, and it can change from week to week based on your sleep and what you’ve had to drink.

Two things worth knowing on your first visit.

Sit on a lower bench at first. The top bench can be up to fifteen degrees hotter than the bottom one. Start low, and move up if you want more heat.

The steam makes a big difference. When water is poured on the stones, the air doesn’t actually get hotter, but it feels like it does right away. If it’s your first time, it might surprise you, and that’s normal.

How long do you stay in the ice bath?

One to three minutes. Two is plenty.

The water is very cold. It’s not just bracing or refreshing—it’s truly cold. The first fifteen seconds can feel uncomfortable, and your body will quickly let you know it’s a shock.

After that, the discomfort fades. Around thirty seconds in, your breathing settles, and you might start to feel calm. That’s the feeling many people return for.

Get in slowly. Sit down fully instead of hovering. Breathe out slowly and for a long time. The gasp reflex is real, and the best way to handle it is to breathe out longer than you breathe in.

Leave the ice bath when you choose to, not just when your body starts to panic. Learning to tell the difference is a big part of the experience.

Do you have to do the ice bath?

No. Plenty of people don’t, and nobody comments.

You can spend the whole three hours in the sauna and skip the cold bath entirely. That’s a perfectly good session, and plenty of first-timers choose to do just that.

The cold bath isn’t a test—it’s just an option.

What do you do in between?

Nothing. This is the part most people skip, but it’s actually important.

The rest between rounds isn’t wasted time. This is when your body recovers—your heart rate settles, blood returns to your skin, and you get that relaxed, loose feeling that’s the real goal of the session.

Rest for at least five to ten minutes. Sit down, drink some water, and maybe look at a plant. Don’t jump back in just because you feel fine—feeling fine is the result of resting.

The garden has shade and somewhere to sit. Use it.

What should you bring?

Swimmers, a towel, and water. That’s it.

Swimmers or shorts. Something you’re happy to be wet in.

A towel. Two if you like — one to sit on, one to dry off.

Bring water—more than you expect. You’ll sweat much more than you realise, since it evaporates before you notice.

Sandals or thongs if you want them. The ground is warm.

Don’t come after a big meal, with a hangover, or with a strict plan. Any of these can make the experience less enjoyable.

Is it actually good for you?

There’s good evidence for the benefits of heat, but less for cold. Be cautious of anyone who claims to be certain about either.

The most-cited work is Finnish. A cohort study followed 2,315 middle-aged men for around twenty years and found that men using a sauna four to seven times a week had lower rates of fatal cardiovascular events than men going once a week. [1] Frequency tracked with the outcome.

This study is observational, so it can’t prove that the sauna caused the results—the authors mention this themselves. Still, it’s a large study over many years and suggests a possible link.

There’s much less clear evidence for cold water immersion. Some studies support its use for recovery, but many confident claims go beyond what the data shows.

Here’s what we know: regular heat exposure seems to be good for you; cold feels amazing; but research is still ongoing, and people in many countries have combined both for generations without waiting for studies to confirm it.

If you have a heart condition, are pregnant, or take medication that affects blood pressure, talk to your doctor before trying either. This is real advice, not just a disclaimer.

Where can you do this near Bangkok?

RönYen Wellness Garden is in Ban Suan, Chonburi. About ten minutes from Central Chonburi and roughly ninety minutes from Bangkok.

We’re open from Thursday to Sunday. Each session lasts three hours and costs ฿450. You need to book in advance, as we don’t accept walk-ins. This helps keep the garden peaceful, which is what we aim for.

The last session starts at 5 pm and the doors close at 8 pm.

We’re located in a gated community. When you book, you’ll receive directions, and we’ll open the gate for you. Please don’t rely only on the map pin.

RönYen means hot and cold. ร้อนเย็น. It’s not just a clever name—it’s a simple description.

Founding Members

We open on 30 July. Until 3 September, you can become a Founding Member and pay ฿315 a session instead of ฿450. That’s 30% off, and it’s for life.

After 3 September, the window closes, and the price is ฿450. Founding Members keep ฿315 permanently.

That’s the whole offer. There are no tiers, no upsells, and no membership cards.

FAQ

How long should you stay in a sauna as a beginner?

Eight to ten minutes on your first visit. Sit on the lower bench, where it’s cooler, and get out when you stop enjoying it rather than when a timer says so.

How long should you stay in an ice bath?

One to three minutes. Two is plenty for most people. Get in slowly, sit down properly, and breathe out longer than you breathe in.

Do you have to do the cold plunge?

No. You can use the sauna for the entire session without getting into the cold water. Around a third of first-timers do exactly that.

What do you need to bring to a sauna session?

Swimmers, a towel and water. Sandals if you want them. Avoid a large meal beforehand.

Where can you try a sauna and an ice bath near Bangkok?

RönYen Wellness Garden is in Ban Suan, Chonburi, about ten minutes from Central Chonburi and ninety minutes from Bangkok. Open Thursday to Sunday, three-hour sessions from ฿450, advance booking only.

Most articles on this topic are written by people who only sell one type of sauna.

Infrared sauna companies often claim that traditional saunas are outdated and uncomfortable. Traditional sauna companies, on the other hand, say infrared is just a fancy heat lamp. Both sides are selling their products and not telling the whole story.

Here’s a comparison without any sales pitch. Some points favour infrared saunas, while others do not.

What is the difference between an infrared and a traditional sauna?

A traditional sauna heats the air. An infrared sauna heats you.

In a traditional sauna, an element heats a mass of stones, the stones heat the air, and the hot air heats your skin. You sit in a room at 80-90°C. Throw water on the stones, and you get a wave of steam that makes it feel hotter again.

In an infrared sauna, emitters send infrared radiation to your body. The air stays around 45 to 60°C. Your skin absorbs the energy directly, and you heat from the surface inward, without the room being especially hot.

Both types aim for the same result, but they use very different methods.

This main difference affects everything else, including power consumption, heating time, maintenance, and the overall experience.

Which one gets hotter?

Traditional saunas get much hotter than infrared ones.

A traditional sauna is set to 80-90°C. An infrared cabin typically runs 45 to 60°C. You could hold a conversation in an infrared cabin without raising your voice.

But hotter and more intense aren’t the same thing. People who move from traditional to infrared often expect it to feel like nothing, and find they sweat about as much, just more slowly and at a much lower air temperature.

To put it simply, traditional saunas offer a shorter and more intense experience, while infrared saunas are longer and gentler. Neither is more difficult to use.

Which one is better for Thailand?

Traditional, in most cases. And this is a Thailand-specific answer that most comparisons miss entirely.

Thailand is already hot. A Chonburi afternoon runs 33 to 35°C with humidity in the seventies. An infrared cabin at 50°C is a fifteen-degree step up from a day you were already sweating through. In Melbourne in July, that same cabin is a forty-degree step up and feels like an event.

The main purpose of a sauna is to create a strong contrast with the outside temperature. Since Thailand is already hot, you need a sauna that provides even more contrast.

Traditional at 85°C is unmistakably a sauna, in any climate, on any day of the year.

There is another important reason, especially for those who have used a sauna before.

What is löyly, and why does it decide this?

It’s the steam off the stones, and you cannot have it in an infrared cabin.

Löyly is the Finnish word for the wave of heat and steam that comes off the rocks when you ladle water on. There’s no English equivalent, which tells you something about who took the practice seriously.

Infrared cabins do not have stones, so there is nothing to pour water onto. If you bring a bucket inside, it will just sit there unused.

If you have never experienced proper löyly, you may not notice its absence. For those who have, this feature often decides which sauna to choose.

Which uses less power?

Infrared saunas use less power, which is their main advantage in Thailand.

An infrared cabin typically draws 1.5 to 3 kW. A traditional sauna for the same number of people requires 6-9 kW.

Three reasons that the gap matters more here than elsewhere:

Single-phase electrical systems can handle up to 12 kW, and most Thai homes use single-phase. Infrared cabins stay well within this limit. Large traditional saunas may require a three-phase upgrade, which can be costly and requires an electrician’s help.

Condos and apartments. If you’re in a building with a body corporate and a shared supply, an infrared request is the one that gets approved.

Heat-up time is another factor. Infrared saunas are ready in 10 to 15 minutes, while traditional saunas take 30 to 45 minutes. If you want a quick session before work, this difference can be important.

If limited power is your main concern, infrared is the best choice. The rest of the information will not change that.

What does each cost to run?

Roughly ฿10 a session for infrared, roughly ฿30 for traditional. It’s not the deciding factor.

Rough arithmetic at about ฿5 per kWh:

A 2 kW infrared cabin runs for an hour. That’s 2 kWh, about ฿10.

A 6 kW traditional sauna: 45 minutes to heat plus an hour’s use. Call it 6 kWh once the thermostat starts cycling the element off, so about ฿30.

Traditional saunas cost about three times more per session, but the difference is still only around twenty baht.

If you use the sauna 4 times a week, you will spend about ฿160 per month on infrared and ฿520 per month on traditional. Over the course of a year, this adds up to a few thousand baht. While this is a real cost, it should not be the main factor in such a large purchase. Choose the sauna you will actually use.

Thai residential electricity is subject to a progressive tariff, so your actual rate depends on your total monthly consumption. ฿5 per kWh is a reasonable middle figure. Check your own bill if the number matters to you.

Which one needs more looking after?

They fail in different places. Traditional fails predictably. Infrared fails electronically.

Traditional saunas use stones and timber, which need occasional replacement. Stones can crack from repeated heating and should be replaced every year or two, though many people delay this. The wood needs to be ventilated and dried between uses. Other than that, traditional saunas are simple, and most problems are easy to spot and fix.

Infrared cabins have emitters and a control board. There are no parts that need to be replaced regularly, but if something breaks, it is usually an electronic component. This means you will need a technician and a replacement part, rather than simply replacing stones.

Neither type requires much maintenance. Traditional saunas need about ten minutes of care each year. Infrared saunas need almost no maintenance unless a repair is needed. Which one is better for you?

There is no strong evidence that one type of sauna is better than the other. Be cautious of anyone who claims otherwise.

The research on sauna bathing is genuinely interesting. A Finnish cohort study followed 2,315 middle-aged men for around twenty years and found that men who used a sauna four to seven times a week had lower rates of fatal cardiovascular events than men who went once a week. [1] Frequency tracked with the outcome.

Two things about that study that the marketing never mentions.

It’s observational. It cannot prove the sauna caused the difference, and the authors say so themselves. Men who sauna seven times a week may well differ from men who sauna once a week in other ways.

And it’s a traditional sauna. All of it. That’s Finland; that’s what they have. The infrared research base is far smaller and far newer, and it does not support the same claims.

In summary, there is reasonable evidence that regular sauna use is good for your health, but no proof that one type is better than the other. Claims that infrared saunas detoxify at a cellular level are not supported by evidence.

The most important advice is to choose the sauna you will use regularly. Your habits matter more than the technology itself.

So which should you buy?

Choose a traditional sauna if you want the classic sauna experience. Choose infrared if you prefer the heat but want a simpler option.

Buy traditional if you’ve used one and liked it; you have the power; you want löyly; and you want an object with almost nothing in it that can break.

Buy infrared if you’re power-limited, you’re in a condo, you want it usable in fifteen minutes, or you’ve tried traditional and found 85°C more than you want to negotiate with.

Do not buy a sauna just because you heard it is healthy if you do not enjoy being hot. Otherwise, it may go unused and become a costly reminder.

What we build

Traditional, hand-built, made to order, ready in 8-9 weeks.

Canadian Red Cedar, Japanese Hinoki, Japanese Cedar or Thermo Pine. Traditional TÜV safety-certified stone heaters from 3 kW to 18 kW, sized for the cabin. Wall-mounted touchscreen as standard, WiFi app control for iOS and Android as an add-on. Two-year structural warranty. Delivered anywhere in Thailand, flat-packed, with professional installation available as an add-on.

The best way to settle this is to sit down. We’re in Ban Suan, ten minutes from Central Chonburi. Come and see them by appointment, or book a session at the Wellness Garden and use one properly for three hours before you spend anything at all.

FAQ

What is the difference between an infrared and a traditional sauna?

A traditional sauna heats the air to 80-90°C using an element and a mass of stones. An infrared sauna uses emitters to heat your body directly while the air stays at 45 to 60°C.

Is infrared or traditional better in a hot climate like Thailand?

Traditional, usually. Thailand’s ambient temperature is already 33 to 35°C, so an infrared cabin at 50°C is a much smaller contrast than it would be in a cold climate. Traditional at 85°C reads as a sauna anywhere.

Which sauna uses less electricity?

Infrared. A cabin typically draws 1.5 to 3 kW, compared with 6 to 9 kW for an equivalent traditional sauna. At roughly ฿5 per kWh, that works out to around ฿10 a session versus ฿30.

Can you use an infrared sauna in a condo?

Usually yes. Infrared operates at low kW on single-phase, which suits apartment supplies. A large traditional sauna may need a three-phase power supply. Check with your building before ordering either.

Is infrared as good for you as a traditional sauna?

There is no good evidence that one is better than the other. The strongest long-term data comes from Finnish traditional sauna research. The infrared evidence base is much smaller. How often you use it matters more than which type you own.

I started cold plunging in an inflatable. Most people do.

Mine was a black drop-stitch tub on the concrete out the back, filled with tap water and bags of ice I drove to the shop to buy. It worked. I got in, I hated the first forty seconds, and I got the recovery I was after. For the first few months, it did everything I needed it to do.

Then the questions began. Customers kept asking: “Should I just get the cheap inflatable one, or spend more on a proper steel tub?” My honest answer was always longer than they expected. The truth is, there’s no single right choice for everyone. It depends on where you live, how you’ll use it, how long you want it to last, and how much sun it will get in Thailand.

So here’s the full story, with no sales pitch. I sell both types, and I’ll explain when each one makes sense, what the trade-offs are, and which one I’d recommend to my own family.

What’s the actual difference between an inflatable and a permanent ice bath?

An inflatable ice bath is a soft-sided tub made from thick, multi-layer PVC with a drop-stitch core, just like stand-up paddleboards and rescue boats. You use a pump to inflate it, fill it with water, and you’re ready to plunge in about fifteen minutes. When you’re finished, you can deflate it and pack it away.

A permanent ice bath is a hard tub that stays in one spot. Ours are made from 304 or 316 stainless steel, and some models have Red Cedar on the outside. It doesn’t fold or pack away. It’s a fixed part of your home, like a bathtub or a small pool.

Both serve the same main purpose: holding cold water for you to get in. The differences are in everything else—how long they last, how well they keep the water cold, running costs, appearance, and how easy they are to live with every day.

Here’s the simplest way to look at it. An inflatable is like heavy-duty camping gear—light, portable, and quick to set up or take down. A permanent tub is more like furniture: solid, fixed, and built to last for years.

How long does an inflatable ice bath last in Thailand?

This is the main reason I tell most serious cold plungers to think twice before choosing an inflatable as a long-term solution.

A good inflatable ice bath, looked after well, lasts a few years. The cold plunge industry generally puts inflatable and PVC tubs at around two to five years of life with proper care (PolarMonkeys, “Inflatable vs Hard Shell Cold Plunge,” 2026). Hard-shell tubs are commonly rated at ten to twenty years (TubWars, “Inflatable vs Hard-Shell Hot Tubs,” 2025). That’s a real gap, and in Thailand it gets wider.

Here’s why. The real problem for PVC isn’t cold water—it’s the sun and heat. Ultraviolet light breaks down PVC over time, making it brittle and likely to crack. Standard PVC can start to show visible damage within six to twelve months of direct sun, with serious brittleness developing in the years after (BASTONE, “Is PVC UV Resistant?”, 2026).

The tropical sun is much harsher. Industry tests show that PVC ages 30 to 50 percent faster in tropical regions than in cooler ones. High surface temperatures make this worse—the oxidation rate of PVC roughly quadruples for every 10°C increase (pvctarpaulin.com, “How Long Does PVC Tarpaulin Last in Sunlight?”, 2025). Inflatable boat makers see the same issue: a PVC boat that lasts five to ten years in a cool climate may only last about two years in the tropics if left uncovered (Perun Outdoors, “How Long Do PVC Inflatable Boats Last?”). A black tub in a Thai courtyard faces exactly this problem.

None of this means an inflatable is useless. It just means you need to take care of it in Thailand: keep it shaded, use the cover, and don’t leave it in the sun all day. Even with good care, you’ll get a few years out of it, not a decade. A stainless steel tub doesn’t have these issues. Steel isn’t affected by UV, resists corrosion and impact, and a good one is truly a buy-it-once item (Soundhon, “Stainless Steel vs Inflatable Cold Plunge,” 2025).

Does an inflatable ice bath stay cold in the Thai heat?

Not as well, and this is where you end up spending more money than you might expect.

Inflatable tubs have thinner walls and less insulation than solid tubs. In a cool climate, this isn’t a big deal. But in Thailand, where the air is often above 30°C, it makes a big difference. The water in an inflatable warms up faster, so you either use more ice to reach your target temperature or, if you have a chiller, the chiller has to work harder to keep it cold.

That second point is the hidden cost. A chiller with a poorly insulated inflatable can work two to three times harder to keep the same temperature as it would with an insulated tub (Soundhon, 2025). Over a month, this means a higher electricity bill, more noise from a compressor that runs more often, and more wear on the chiller, which can shorten its life. A permanent tub with thicker, insulated walls keeps the cold longer and lets the chiller turn off more often, making it quieter, cheaper to run, and easier on the equipment (PolarMonkeys, 2026).

If you use bagged ice and don’t have a chiller, the lack of insulation means your water stays cold for a shorter time and you’ll make more trips to buy ice. Either way, the lower upfront price of an inflatable comes with higher running costs in a hot climate. It’s better to know this before you buy.

Is a permanent ice bath more comfortable?

Mostly, yes, but it’s not a clear win for the permanent tub. The inflatable has its own advantages too.

A permanent stainless tub has a solid, planted feel. You climb in and out against a rigid edge, the shape holds, and the better models have ergonomic interiors and proper seating. Reviewers consistently rate hard tubs higher for the secure, sturdy in-and-out experience (Cold Plunge Reviews, “Inflatable vs Hard Shell Cold Tubs,” 2024).

But the inflatable has a real comfort advantage: the walls are soft. The air-filled sides give your neck and back something gentle to lean against, which is easier than resting your head on cold steel for three minutes. For some people, especially those using cold therapy for rehab or injury recovery, that soft surface is a real benefit and makes getting in and out easier (Huale, “Inflatable Ice Bath vs Framed Ice Tub,” 2025).

So, permanent tubs are better for solidity and seating, while inflatables are better for softness. It depends on what feels best for your body.

Is a permanent ice bath more hygienic?

Yes, and this is especially important in a humid country like Thailand.

Stainless steel is used in medical facilities for a reason—it’s non-porous, easy to clean, and resists the build-up that softer materials can collect (Soundhon, 2025). A hard tub is also easier to drain, wipe down, and use with proper filtration. Inflatables can be kept clean, but their seams, folds, and softer surfaces need more attention. In Thailand’s humidity, anything that traps moisture needs extra care. If you want low-maintenance hygiene, a permanent tub is the easier choice (Cold Plunge Reviews, 2024).

What about portability and space?

This is where the inflatable really shines, and it’s the clear winner.

If you rent, live in a condo, don’t have a permanent spot, or want to pack it away when guests come over, the inflatable is the obvious choice. It weighs about 20 to 25kg with accessories, deflates to the size of a large suitcase, and fits in your car if you move (RecoveryGuru, “Best Ice Baths for Home Use,” 2026). A permanent stainless tub can’t do any of that. Once it’s installed, it stays put.

There’s also the “test the waters” argument, which makes sense. If you’re not sure cold plunging will become a habit, an inflatable is a low-commitment way to try it. Many people in the industry suggest this approach: prove the habit to yourself first, and if you’re plunging five mornings a week after two months, you’ll know if it’s time to upgrade (Eternal Ice Bath, “Inflatable or Hard Cold Plunge for Daily Use,” 2026).

So which one should you buy?

Here’s how I actually talk people through it.

Buy an inflatable if:

• You rent or live in a condo with no permanent space.
• You want to test whether cold plunging is for you before spending more.
• You need to move it, store it, or take it with you.
• Your budget right now is the deciding factor.
• You’ll keep it shaded and covered, not baking in the sun.

Buy a permanent ice bath if:

• You’ve got a fixed spot for it, and you’re committed to the habit.
• You want it to last ten years or more, not a few.
• You’re running a chiller and want lower running costs and less compressor wear.
• Hygiene and easy maintenance matter to you
• You want it to look like a proper part of your home, not gear.

The honest summary: an inflatable is the gateway. It’s how most people start, it’s how I started, and there’s no shame in it. But if you already know cold therapy is part of your life, a permanent tub costs more up front and saves you money and hassle over the years, it’ll keep going. The cheapest tub isn’t the one with the lowest price — it’s the one you’re still using in five years.

What does each one cost at RönYen?

Prices shown so you can do the maths yourself.

Inflatable range (bath only):

• Inflatable Barrel Ice Bath, 1 person — from ฿19,999
• Inflatable Tub Ice Bath, 1-2 person — from ฿22,999
• Inflatable 4 Person Ice Bath — from ฿31,999

Add the matched chiller to any inflatable: +฿74,000 (barrel and tub) or +฿99,000 (4-person). With the chiller included, the inflatable Barrel is ฿93,999, the Tub is ฿96,999, and the 4-person is ฿130,999.

Permanent range (built to order, 4-6 weeks):

• Black Plunge Ice Bath, 304 stainless steel, 1 person — ฿86,450
• Stainless Steel Ice Bath Tub, 304 stainless, 1 person — ฿94,050
• 3-4 Person Red Cedar & Stainless Steel Ice Bath, 316 stainless — ฿94,050
• Oval Ice Bath, Red Cedar & 304 stainless, 1 person — ฿100,700
• Circular Wood & Stainless Steel Ice Bath, 304 stainless, 1-2 person — ฿108,999
• Wood Plunge Ice Bath with Railing Stairs, Red Cedar & 304 stainless — ฿109,250
• All-in-one Ice Bath, white seamless acrylic with built-in chiller — ฿166,250
• All-in-one Ice Bath & Chiller, Red Cedar & 304 stainless — from ฿173,453

Here’s a number that surprises many people: once you add a chiller to an inflatable, the total is ฿93,999, which is about the same as where permanent stainless tubs start. So if you know you want a chiller, the permanent tub is often the smarter buy from the beginning. It lasts longer, costs less to run, and you’re not spending inflated prices for a steel-tub result.

Every tub comes with free delivery Thailand-wide. The permanent tubs are built to order with a 4-6 week build time.

So, what’s better? Inflatable vs Permanent Ice Bath

If you’re trying cold therapy, renting, or short on space, start with an inflatable. Prices begin at ฿19,999, and it will do the job. If you know this is part of your lifestyle, have the space, and especially if you want a chiller, choose a permanent tub. In Thailand’s sun and heat, steel lasts much longer than PVC, costs less to run, and stays cleaner.

Either way, try plunging first and decide later. Both options offer the same benefits. The only difference is how long the tub will keep providing them.

If you need help choosing the right tub size or matching a chiller, that’s what our free consultation is for. We’ll recommend what fits your space and honestly tell you which option suits your needs.

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FAQ

Q: How long does an inflatable ice bath last in Thailand?
A: With good care, expect a few years — the industry generally rates inflatable PVC tubs at two to five years (PolarMonkeys, 2026). Thailand’s sun and heat shorten that, because UV radiation and high temperatures break down PVC faster — tropical ageing runs 30 to 50 per cent quicker than in temperate climates. Keeping it shaded and covered makes a real difference. A stainless steel tub isn’t affected by UV and lasts far longer.

Q: Is a permanent ice bath cheaper to run than an inflatable?
A: In a hot climate, yes. An inflatable’s thinner walls hold the cold less well, so a chiller works two to three times harder to maintain temperature, meaning higher electricity costs, more noise, and more wear on the chiller. A permanent insulated tub holds cold longer and lets the chiller cycle off, which is cheaper and quieter day to day.

Q: Can I add a chiller to an inflatable ice bath?
A: Yes. At RönYen, the matched chiller is +฿74,000 for the Barrel and Tub, or +฿99,000 for the 4-person. Worth knowing: once you add the chiller, an inflatable comes to around ฿93,999 — right where the permanent stainless tubs start. If you want a chiller anyway, a permanent tub is often the better-value choice from the outset.

Q: Which is more comfortable, inflatable or permanent?
A: Permanent tubs feel more solid and have proper seating and ergonomics, which most people prefer for everyday use. Inflatables have one advantage: soft, air-filled walls that are gentler on your neck and back, which can suit rehab and injury recovery. It comes down to what your body wants.

Q: I rent and might move — which should I buy?
A: An inflatable. It weighs around 20-25kg, deflates into a suitcase-sized pack, and comes with you when you move. A permanent stainless tub is a fixed installation. If flexibility matters more than longevity, the inflatable is the clear choice.

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REFERENCE LINKS

• PolarMonkeys — Inflatable vs Hard Shell Cold Plunge: https://polarmonkeys.com/pages/inflatable-vs-hard-shell
• Soundhon — Stainless Steel vs Inflatable Cold Plunge: https://soundhon.com/information/cold-plunge-guide/stainless-steel-vs-inflatable-cold-plunge-which-is-actually-right-for-you/
• Eternal Ice Bath — Inflatable or Hard Cold Plunge for Daily Use: https://eternalicebath.com/en-us/blogs/cold-plunges-posts/inflatable-or-hard-cold-plunge-daily-use
• Cold Plunge Reviews — Inflatable vs Hard Shell Cold Tubs: https://www.relaxacare.ca/blogs/news/coldure-vs-ice-barrel-inflatable-cold-tubs-vs-hard-shell-cold-tubs-cold-plunge-reviews
• TubWars — Inflatable vs Hard-Shell Hot Tubs: https://tubwars.com/inflatable-vs-hard-shell-hot-tubs-which-wins/
• pvctarpaulin.com — How Long Does PVC Tarpaulin Last in Sunlight (tropical ageing data): https://pvctarpaulin.com/how-long-does-pvc-tarpaulin-last-in-sunlight/
• BASTONE — Is PVC UV Resistant: https://bastone-plastics.com/blogs/is-pvc-uv-resistant-the-surprising-truth-about-sun-damage-and-what-actually-fails/
• Perun Outdoors — How Long Do PVC Inflatable Boats Last: https://perunoutdoors.com/blogs/news/how-long-do-pvc-inflatable-boats-last
• Huale — Inflatable Ice Bath vs Framed Ice Tub: https://huale-inflatable.com/inflatable-ice-bath-tub-vs-framed-ice-tub-the-advantages-of-inflatable-models/
• RecoveryGuru — Best Ice Baths for Home Use in Australia 2026: https://www.recoveryguru.com.au/blog/best-ice-bath-for-home-cold-therapy-recovery/

For the first few weeks, I used bagged ice for my ice bath. I drove to the shop, brought the bags home, poured them in, and saw much of the ice melt before I even got changed. By the time I finished, the water was already warming up again. The next morning, it was the same routine: another drive, more bags, and more melting.

Then I sat down and worked out the numbers. This post shares the honest results, so you can decide if you really need a chiller or if ice is enough for you.

How fast does ice melt in an ice bath in Thailand?

Fast. Much faster than anywhere with a real winter.

Tap water here is usually around 28-30°C for most of the year. To make an ice bath effective, you are not just lowering it a few degrees; you need to bring it down by 15 to 20°C, all while the environment is working to heat it back up. The sun hits the tub, the air is 33°C, and the humidity is high. The heat never lets up.

Here’s the basic science: cooling a single-person tub of about 300 litres from 30°C to 10°C takes around 85-90kg of ice, and that only gets you there once. It does not account for keeping the temperature down as the afternoon heat returns. If you stay in for a full session, you will need to add more ice.

With each bag costing ฿15-฿20, it takes nearly ฿500 to cool the tub just once. If you do this every day, you are spending ฿10,000 or more each month, not counting the time and effort involved in buying and carrying the ice. That cost made me reconsider.

How cold does an ice bath actually need to be?

Colder than a cool bath, but not as cold as most people assume.

The research lands on a fairly tight window. A 2025 network meta-analysis in Frontiers in Physiology pooled 55 controlled trials and found that 10 to 15 minutes at 11 to 15°C worked best for easing muscle soreness, while 5 to 10°C was more effective for deeper recovery markers (muscle-damage enzymes and jump performance). A separate systematic review in PLOS One reached the same broad conclusion: cold-water immersion after hard exercise speeds up recovery of physical function, reduces soreness, and lowers post-exercise inflammation.

One honest note: the same research shows that regular cold plunges right after weight training can slow muscle growth over time. If you want to build maximum size and strength, wait a few hours between your workout and your ice bath. For recovery, sleep, and feeling better in this climate, though, ice baths are hard to beat.

Aim for a temperature between 5 and 15°C. In Thailand, the key is to keep the water at that temperature for your whole session, not just reach it briefly before it warms up again.

What does a chiller actually do?

A chiller does two things that ice cannot manage well in this heat: it cools the water and keeps it cold.

A chiller is a compressor unit that removes heat from the water and circulates it, so your tub stays at the exact temperature you set, like 8°C or 10°C, whether you get in right away or hours later. There are no bags to buy, no trips to the shop, and no guessing. Most chillers also filter the water and often use a UV steriliser, so the water stays clean, and you do not have to drain and refill it every few days. With just ice, the water stays still, warms up, and goes bad quickly.

You set the temperature once and can get in whenever you want. That is the main benefit.

Ice versus a chiller: what does it really cost?

The costs are very different. Ice is cheap at first but expensive over time. A chiller costs more up front but is cheaper in the long run.

Ice: nothing to buy up front since you already have the tub, but roughly ฿300 to ฿500 per session just to get cold, plus top-ups to keep it cold. Used daily, that is, ฿9,000 to ฿15,000 a month, indefinitely.

Chiller: There is a real upfront cost of ฿74,000, plus electricity costs. With Thailand’s current rate of about ฿3.95 per unit, keeping a single tub cold with a chiller costs about ฿400 to ฿700 a month, depending on your chosen temperature and how hot your location is.

You do not need a spreadsheet to see when the costs cross over. If you use an ice bath most days, a chiller pays for itself within a few months and keeps saving you money. Plus, you will no longer have to handle bags of ice.

So do you actually need a chiller?

It really depends on how you use your ice bath. Here is a straightforward breakdown.

You probably do not need a chiller if you plunge a couple of times a week, you do not mind a shop run, and you are happy to get cold for a few minutes rather than maintaining a specific temperature. A bag or two of ice in an inflatable ice bath, from ฿19,999, and you are sorted.

You probably do want a chiller if you use your ice bath every day, want the same temperature each time, share the bath with others at home, in a gym, or in a studio, or if you do not want to keep buying ice once the novelty fades (which is true for most people). A chiller is even more worthwhile when multiple people use the bath, since the filtration keeps the water clean rather than letting it get murky by the end of the week.

This is the main reason RönYen exists: to offer cold therapy that works in Thailand’s heat, instead of struggling with melting ice every day. For some people, a tub and a bag of ice are enough. For most who keep up the habit, a chiller is the better choice.

What size chiller do you need?

It comes down to your tub’s volume, how cold you want to go, and how exposed your spot is.

As a general guide, a 1.5HP chiller unit is good for a single-person tub in a shaded or indoor spot at typical recovery temperatures. Choose a 2.0 HP chiller unit if you have a larger tub, want very cold water, need a quick cooldown, or your bath is in full sun where it gets very hot. If the chiller is too small, it will run constantly and still struggle on the hottest days. If you choose the right size, it will keep your water at the right temperature without using too much power.

If you are unsure, let us know your tub size and where it will be placed, and we will help you choose the right chiller. There is no reason to pay for a bigger compressor than you need.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can’t I just use ice instead of a chiller?
Yes, especially if you only use an ice bath occasionally. The challenge in Thailand is the cost and convenience. It takes about 85-90kg of ice to cool a single tub once, and the heat quickly warms it back up. For daily use, a chiller is cheaper to run and much less trouble.

How cold should I set my chiller?
A range of 5-15°C is supported by research. Most people find 10 to 12°C comfortable and effective to start. You can lower it toward 5°C as you get used to it or if you want deeper recovery.

Does a chiller keep the water clean?
Most chillers do. They move the water through a filter, and many have a UV steriliser, so the water stays clear much longer than in a still tub with melting ice. You will still need to change the water sometimes, but not as often.

How much does a chiller cost to run in Thailand?
It costs about ฿400-฿700 per month to keep a single tub cold, based on Thailand’s current electricity rate of about ฿3.95 per unit. The exact cost depends on your chosen temperature and your location’s heat.

Will cold plunging hurt my gym gains?
The timing is what matters. Regular cold immersion right after weight training can slow muscle growth, so wait a few hours between lifting and your ice bath. For recovery and sleep, the benefits are well supported.

Want to figure out whether ice or a chiller is better for your setup? Send us a message with your tub details, where it is, and how often you plan to use it, and we will give you a clear answer. If this helped, share it with the friend who keeps taking your ice.

Carl runs RönYen Wellness in Chonburi, providing saunas, ice baths, and chillers throughout Thailand and shipping internationally. He has used hot and cold therapy every day for years and learned most of this through experience, often the hard way, one bag of ice at a time.

The first time I saw a sauna fall apart in Thailand, it was only three years old. The bench tops had warped like surfboards, the wall joints had opened enough to let in daylight, and termites were quietly making their way up one corner. The owner had bought it based on a European spec sheet, using beautiful Canadian cedar and solid construction, and assumed it would perform the same in Bangkok as it did in Helsinki.

It didn’t. Thailand is different from Finland. Heat, humidity, termites, monsoon mould, and strong sunlight break down wood that would last for decades in a colder place. If you choose the wrong wood, you’ll be rebuilding in five to seven years. Choose the right wood, and the tropical climate is barely a problem.

Here’s what I’ve learned after years of selling, installing, and seeing how customers’ saunas and ice baths age in Thailand. I’ll cover what lasts, what doesn’t, and the timber options we offer at RonYen for tropical conditions.

What makes wood good for a sauna in Thailand’s climate?

A sauna anywhere needs wood that can withstand three conditions: extreme heat, repeated wet-and-dry cycles, and direct skin contact. In Thailand, you have to add four more: constant humidity, monsoon season, termites that quickly eat softwoods, and months of strong sunlight that bleaches and dries anything outdoors.

The properties that matter most:

Dimensional stability: the wood needs to stay flat as it moves between hot, dry sauna conditions and Thailand’s humid air. Some types of wood are naturally more stable than others.

Low resin and sap content: heated wood releases sap. Pine or untreated fir in a sauna will drip sticky resin onto your skin and benches. Saunas need wood with naturally low sap content, or wood with sap removed.

Low thermal conductivity: this is why a 90°C bench doesn’t burn you. The wood needs to insulate against its own heat. Some types warm up slowly, while others get hot quickly.

Rot and decay resistance: repeated moisture exposure means that any wood susceptible to fungal damage will eventually fail. In Thailand’s humidity, that risk is always present, not just during certain seasons.

Termite and insect resistance: this is something most guides from colder countries don’t mention. Termites in Thailand quickly eat untreated softwood. Some woods naturally repel them, others need treatment, and some are basically termite food.

Which sauna timber options does RonYen offer?

Our saunas are available in a range of timbers selected for tropical performance. Each has its own strengths, and the right choice depends on budget, look, and where the sauna is headed.

Red Cedar
The premium classic. Naturally aromatic, low-resin, very dimensionally stable, naturally rot- and insect-resistant. It’s lightweight and doesn’t transfer heat aggressively. The smell is a big part of the experience for many people. Rich reddish-brown with striking natural grain. The benchmark sauna timber and what we recommend when the budget allows.

Rusty Cedar
Milled from high-quality knotty cedar. It has the same natural resistance to rot and insects as Red Cedar, but with a more unique look, featuring rich grain and distinctive knots. It looks warmer and more textured than clear cedar. It’s a great choice for anyone who wants a natural character in their sauna.

Japanese Hinoki
A refined timber with warm golden tones and subtle light purple streaks. Naturally rot and insect resistant. It has long been used in Japanese construction and fine furniture for its durability and distinctive scent. Sits between Red Cedar and the budget options in terms of price.

Japanese Cedar
Straight, uniform grain with a naturally pleasant fragrance. Its anti-corrosion and insect-resistant properties make it well-suited for outdoor builds. Light-to-medium dark colouring that closely resembles Canadian Red Cedar at a different price point. A solid mid-range option.

Thermo Hemlock
Hemlock that’s been heat-treated to deepen its colour to a cedar-like tone and greatly improve its performance. The heat treatment closes the moisture-absorbing cells in the wood, which is ideal when the humidity is around 70% all year. After treatment, it resists corrosion and insects. It’s the best value for this climate.

Hemlock
Untreated hemlock. Pale, neutral, low resin, light colour with few knots. Looks high-end and clean. For outdoor use, we generally recommend timber oil and protective shingles to extend service life. Best suited to indoor builds or covered outdoor positions.

Thermo Pine
Heat-treated pine is the budget thermo option. The heat treatment gives it a darker colour and makes it resistant to corrosion and insects. It has a knotty look. It’s better than untreated pine for outdoor and humid conditions.

Source: International ThermoWood Association — Properties of Thermally Modified Timber
https://thermowood.fi/thermowood-process/

What’s the best sauna wood for Thailand specifically?

For Thailand, my honest ranking based on what actually holds up:

1. Canadian Red Cedar or Canadian Rusty Cedar are the top choices if your budget allows. They naturally resist everything the Thai climate throws at them. With their iconic smell, beautiful grain, and good ventilation, they can last for decades even in Thailand.
2. Canadian Thermo Hemlock is the best value for this climate. Heat treatment stabilises the wood and keeps termites and fungus away. It costs less than cedar but performs almost as well in tropical conditions.
3. Japanese Hinoki, or Japanese Cedar, is a true premium alternative to Canadian cedar, each with its own unique character. They naturally resist rot and insects. These are good options for anyone looking for something different.
4. Sweden/Finland Thermo Pine is the budget thermo option. It works better than untreated softwood and is affordable for first-time sauna buyers.
5. Canadian Hemlock is fine for indoor saunas or well-covered outdoor spots, but I wouldn’t use it for outdoor builds exposed to full Thai weather unless you add protection.

It’s best to avoid using untreated pine, untreated fir, or any softwood that hasn’t been kiln-dried or heat-treated for sauna interiors. These woods can leak resin, change shape, and rot, so they aren’t worth the savings.

What about teak — isn’t it the best wood for the tropics?

Teak is a common topic. People often think of it when they want wood that lasts in the tropics, and that’s understandable. Outdoor furniture, boat decks, and pool areas have used teak for centuries because it handles humidity, salt, and sun better than most wood. So it’s a fair question.

The issue with teak in a sauna is comfort. It’s a dense hardwood, much harder than cedar, hemlock, pine, or hinoki. Sitting on a teak bench at 90°C for twenty minutes is much less comfortable than sitting on a cedar or heat-treated softwood bench, which has more give and doesn’t get as hot. Teak also transfers heat more quickly than softwood, so the bench surface gets hotter where your skin touches it. That’s not what you want in a sauna.

The softwoods we use, especially cedar, are the industry standard for sauna interiors around the world; for this reason, not just in Thailand. Once you sit on a well-made cedar bench, you’ll see why teak hasn’t replaced it, even with all of teak’s other strengths.

So our view on teak is simple: it’s a great wood for outdoor decking, pool areas, garden furniture, and ice bath cladding if you want that look. But it’s not the right choice for sitting in a sauna. We don’t use it in our sauna range and wouldn’t recommend it, no matter who is building the sauna.

Why are ice baths made of different materials than saunas?

This is where most articles go wrong. Modern ice baths separate the water-holding part from the decorative exterior. The water sits in a stainless steel or composite inner liner. The wood on the outside is just cladding and never comes into contact with water.

That separation matters because it solves a problem traditional all-wood ice baths can’t. Untreated timber that sits in water, drains, refills, and sits in water again will eventually degrade. It warps. It develops mould. Wood is porous, which means bacteria establish in it over time, and you can’t sterilise it properly between uses. In Thailand’s ambient humidity, that process is accelerated significantly.

Stainless steel solves all those problems. Specifically, 304-grade or 316-grade food-safe stainless. It doesn’t absorb water, warp, or develop the biofilm that makes wooden tubs hard to keep clean, and it can be properly sanitised. The wood on the outside gives you a warm look and character, but it never comes into contact with water.

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Which ice bath construction does RonYen offer?

Three main configurations in the current range:

Red Cedar exterior with stainless steel interior
The premium classic. Canadian Red Cedar staves on the outside, with a 304 or 316-grade stainless inner tub. You get the visual warmth and natural character of cedar without any of the structural problems wood would face if it were in contact with water. The cedar is naturally rot-resistant and ages well in the climate. The stainless interior is non-porous, easy to clean, and corrosion-resistant. This is what most residential customers choose.

Full stainless steel
It has a clean, industrial finish and is the easiest and most hygienic option to maintain. You can choose a polished or matte black-coated exterior. This style works well in commercial settings such as clinics, gyms, and hotels, as well as in modern homes where a minimalist look fits the design. It’s easier to clean and inspect, and it lasts longer with heavy use.

Composite wood
You get the look of wood without the maintenance. It is weather-resistant and keeps its colour and texture without the regular oiling that real cedar needs. It’s a good choice for outdoor spots in full sun or for anyone who wants the wood look but not the upkeep.

The one setup we don’t offer, and never will, is plain unlined wood touching the water. There’s a reason for that. It doesn’t work well in this climate, and the hygiene trade-off isn’t worth the rustic look.

What’s the best ice bath construction for Thailand?

For most homeowners, a Red Cedar exterior with a stainless steel interior is the best choice. You get the look of wood, cedar stands up well to Thailand’s humidity, and the stainless steel interior helps you avoid the hygiene issues that come with wood and water.

For commercial use — gyms, recovery clinics, hotels — full stainless steel makes more sense. Higher hygiene standards, harder use, more cleaning. Stainless takes that without complaint.

For outdoor spots in full sun, where cedar would dry out and fade too quickly, composite wood is the lower-maintenance option. It keeps its appearance without needing oil.

How do you care for wooden saunas and cedar ice baths in tropical climates?

Maintenance is where many owners make mistakes. A wooden sauna in Helsinki needs almost no care, but in Bangkok, it does. Here’s what really matters:

Ventilate between sessions. Leave the sauna door a bit open and prop up the ice bath cover after each use. Warm, moist air that becomes trapped allows mould to grow. Five minutes of fresh air does more than any chemical treatment.

UV protection for outdoor builds. Direct sunlight bleaches wood quickly in Thailand. Adding a roof, cover, or shade extends the wood’s lifespan. Oils and stains help, but they can’t replace keeping the harsh sun off the wood. For any outdoor wooden structure, a termite barrier or chemical treatment at the installation stage is cheap insurance. Done early, it lasts for years. Trying to retrofit one after termites are already in is far harder.

Use timber oil on cedar every six to twelve months to keep its color. If you skip this, the cedar will turn silver, which is fine if you like that look. The wood won’t break down either way; oiling is just for appearance.

Don’t use heavy chemical sealants on sauna interiors. Varnishes and polyurethanes can release fumes in the heat and become sticky. Sauna wood interiors should be left raw or finished only with food-grade sauna products.

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FAQ

Q: What’s the best wood for a sauna in Thailand?
A: Canadian Red Cedar is the top choice. It naturally resists rot and insects, stays stable, and handles tropical humidity well. Canadian Thermo Hemlock is the best value, with heat treatment that closes the wood’s moisture-absorbing cells. Both are better than untreated softwoods like pine or hemlock in Thailand’s humidity.

Q: Do RonYen ice baths use solid timber?
A: No. Our ice baths use a stainless steel or composite inner liner — that’s what holds the water — with optional Red Cedar exterior cladding for the timber look. Solid all-wood ice baths are problematic in Thailand’s climate because untreated timber in contact with water absorbs moisture, develops mould, and cannot be properly sanitised between sessions.

Q: How long does a wooden sauna last in Thailand?
A: Properly chosen and maintained, fifteen to twenty-five years for the core structure. The wrong wood or poor maintenance can drop that to five to eight years. Ventilation, UV protection, and termite prevention make the biggest difference.

Q: Do I need to oil or seal sauna wood?
A: Sauna interiors should generally be left raw or treated only with food-grade sauna-specific products. Conventional varnishes and polyurethanes can off-gas at high temperatures and become tacky. Outdoor sauna exteriors can benefit from periodic UV-protective oils.

Q: What about teak — isn’t it the best wood for tropical conditions?
A: Teak is excellent for outdoor furniture, decking and marine use — extremely durable in tropical humidity. For sauna interiors specifically, though, teak is too hard and conducts heat too aggressively to be comfortable to sit on for a full session. Softwoods like cedar and thermo-treated hemlock or pine have the natural give and lower thermal conductivity that make long sauna sessions comfortable, which is why they’re the industry standard worldwide. We don’t offer teak in the sauna range for this reason.

Q: What’s the cheapest sauna wood that still holds up in Thailand?
A: Sweden/Finland Thermo Pine or Canadian Thermo Hemlock. Both are heat-treated, which gives them anti-corrosion and insect-resistant properties at a much lower price point than cedar. Untreated hemlock is cheaper still, but lasts noticeably less time in Thai outdoor conditions.