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How to Look After an Outdoor Sauna in the Thai Climate
People often ask me if a timber sauna will just rot in Thailand. With forty-degree afternoons, ninety per…
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Everything you need to run your RonYen ice bath — first set-up with diagrams, the cleaning routine with and without a chiller, and care for inflatable baths. Bookmark this page — the QR sticker on your chiller always lands here.
Seven steps, about half an hour, with the diagrams to match.
Beside the bath, on the same level as it — not above. Lock the castors and give it room to breathe on every side; it pulls air through itself to shed heat. Do not plug it in yet.
A filled bath weighs several hundred kilos — make sure your flooring can hold the weight.
Wrap the threads with plumber's tape, then hand-tighten. Direction matters: the chiller's OUT goes to the bath's IN, and the bath's OUT returns to the chiller's IN.
Tap or garden hose, straight in. The water surface must sit above the chiller's inlet — this is the rule that makes everything work. If the chiller's inlet is above the waterline, the pump sucks air instead of water.
Upper limit: keep it below the bath's own inlet fitting.
The filter housing is under the cap on top of the chiller. Open it, pour water in until full, seat the paper filter element, tighten the cap hand-tight.
Never start a chiller dry — an empty pump runs loud and wears itself out.
Breaker first, then the power button. Plug into a standard 220–240V wall socket.
No extension cords. Water and power share this corner of your garden — the chiller plugs directly into the wall, always.
Check the panel: water flow should read above 15 L/min.
Set your temperature on the touchscreen or in the app — anywhere from 0 to 42°C, so the same bath does cold plunges and hot soaks. Put the lid on while it pulls down; it gets there noticeably faster.
Plunge, then switch it back on when you're out.
| Bath size | Water | First pull-down, 1.5HP* |
|---|---|---|
| Barrel | 320 L | ≈ 4 hours |
| Tub-class | ~500 L | ≈ 6 hours |
| Large | ~800 L | overnight |
*From 30°C tap water down to 5°C — a 1.5HP chiller moves roughly 1 hour per 80 litres; a 2.0HP roughly 1 hour per 100 litres, so scale the times down.
Two honest ways to run it — pick whichever suits your mornings.
Lid on, it just sits there cold, ready whenever you are.
Holding costs ~0.5 kWh a day — a few baht per day.
Set the app timer — on at 5am, ready by 10am, off after the last plunge at 10pm, lid on overnight. With the lid on, the water only drifts a few degrees, so the morning re-cool is 1–2 hours, not a full pull-down.
Schedule for noise (52 dB — fridge-quiet, but it's your call at 3am) or preference, not cost.
App control — set schedules and change the target temperature from anywhere. Your bath is cold before you're home.
Check the airflow clearance around the chiller, then rinse the filter — those two solve almost every case.
Check the base is level and the castors are locked — a rocking chiller hums louder than it should.
Air is trapped inside (common when both bath fittings sit under the waterline). Open the drainer briefly to bleed it out; flow recovers straight away.
Six verbs, once a week, a few minutes each. The chiller's filter and ozone do the daily work between them.
Every item is in the RonYen Ice Bath Cleaning Kit — it shipped free with your bath.
The chiller also runs ozone disinfection as it circulates. It works alongside the stabiliser, not instead of it — keep dosing and testing as normal.
With a chiller, the filter and ozone stretch a fill to weeks. When the strips say it's time:
Never run the chiller dry. Switch it off before you drain, back on after the refill.
| First fill | Weekly top-up | |
|---|---|---|
| Per 100 L | ~50 ml | ~15 ml |
| Barrel · 320 L | ≈ 160 ml — about a third of the bottle | ≈ 50 ml |
Then dip a strip and adjust — the strips are the truth, the table is the starting point.
≈ 2–3 first fills, or a couple of months of weekly maintenance on the barrel.
Never mix with chlorine pool products. Store the bottle out of the sun.
An insulated stainless bath holds its temperature noticeably longer than PVC or timber-lined tubs — the chiller runs less and costs less to keep cold.
The full kit is ฿1,490 — all six items, delivered. Bath arrived before the kit existed? Same link — it fits every RonYen bath.
No circulation, no filter, no ozone — the water works harder. Same kit, same six verbs, shorter cycle.
Using plain water with no stabiliser? Change it every day. Using the kit? Dose it, test it, and a fill lasts a few days — let the strip tell you, not the calendar.
Melting ice is new water — it dilutes your stabiliser. After a big ice session, dip a strip and top up the dose.
Stabiliser, strips, net, brush, cloths, thermometer — ฿1,490 for the lot.
This is material care for the PVC drop-stitch shell — the water routine is the same as any bath: section 2 with a chiller, section 3 without.
The 6% stabiliser is fine diluted in the water. Wiping seams directly? Dilute first — never apply neat to seam welds.
No solvents, alcohol or chlorine concentrates — they attack PVC and the seam welds.
Mould starts in the folds — the silicone brush is made for exactly this.
UV fades and embrittles PVC and warms the water. Keep it out of the sun.
Flush the gunk out at each water change — it's where everything collects.
Fold it damp once and it comes out speckled. Air it fully, then deflate, fold and store indoors.
Watch the sharp things. Jewellery, pet claws and anything pointed near the shell. If it ever does get a nick — your repair kit is in the box.
One kit covers the whole range — stainless, acrylic and inflatable baths all use the same six items.

Hydrogen peroxide stabiliser 500 ml · test strips ×30 · stainless-frame skimmer net · long-handle silicone brush · microfibre cloths ×2 · floating thermometer.
Questions about your setup? Reply to your order email, or call or LINE us — a real person who knows your bath answers.
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